And it is the top of the K2! Climbers on the summit 60 years after the first ascent

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UPDATED h 12:00 – BASE CAMP OF K2, Pakistan – It is the top! They went to the top of K2 Pakistanis Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig and Ghulam Mehdi Ali and Muhammad Sadiq, members of the expedition K2 60 years later. A few seconds ago came the news of the summit also Tamara Lunger, Klaus Gruber and 16 Sherpas. Michael Cucchi and Czech Radek Jaros are 80 meters away. We sentitio the “Summiter” live on the radio screaming: Pakistan zindabad! K2 expeditation zindabad! EvK2Cnr zindabad!
The news comes at a time of peak, vehement and happy. Different people are going up. Among the first to arrive Pakistani climbers and Sherpas, but there are also Italians Tamara Lunger and Klaus Gruber, while Cucchi should arrive shortly since the last update saw him 80 meters from the top.
The first official expedition in Pakistan is carried out with the support of Italy and EvK2Cnr. The team includes Michael Cucchi, Simone Origone and Agostino Da Polenza which follows from the base camp. Leading the way along the neck of the bottle and took turns through the Sherpas with oxygen and four Pakistanis Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig and Ghulam Mehdi achieved uphill from Ali and Muhammad Sadiq. Simone Origone has reached about 8200 and has returned to camp 4 with Muhammad Hassan.
“They had so much of that desire to climb – commented Agostino Da Polenza, president of the Italian EvK2Cnr, who is following step by step the whole expedition from the base camp of K2 – to prove their worth on their mountain, the arrival summit has become an escape chassis. In front of Sherpas and Pakistani. The first oxygen without the other. Alternate in the head to knock the snow, sometimes founded after the 8200 meters across which together have equipped with a fixed rope to secure the descent. ”
“Then on – continued from Polenza -, head down, with the sun that warms the bones finally protected by heavy suits and feather. Twenty paces then change. The lungs and the heart are in agony, the Sherpas are breathing a mixture of air and oxygen that leads them 2000 feet down, they are there to work, the Pakistanis are breathing the thin air of ottomilaquattrocento meters. Only air for them, their pride and passion for these mountains. Head down, towards the summit. Another two, twenty paces, then change. “

Mountaineers climb K2, a few hours to the top. Real-time updates

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25 July 2014 – 21:17 | Author: 

UPDATED 06:00 h 26/07 – “The first to go should be under the area of ‘Shark fin’, normally from there in 2 or 2 and a half hours to reach the top. The nice thing is that we are in front of our Pakistanis, particularly Ali Durani, who is a boy of 24 years strong. He is going ahead with 3 Sherpas: he climbs without oxygen, Sherpas with the 3 “. This is the last update just arrived from Agostino Da Polenza from K2 base camp, where at this time the climbers are climbing the last stretch of the Abruzzi Spur route that separates them from the top.
UPDATE 02:40 h 26/07 – “Long phone call with Daniel, Simon has returned to Camp 4. Was left with a slight headache which has been increasing. He preferred to give up towards the neck of the bottle and return to camp safely where it is now. All others are continuing. To view Daniel sees a group of people now after the cross, some on the other through the top of the neck of the bottle. No downhill. See you again at 7 o’clock. ”
Simone Origone is then returned to Camp 4, where he is currently with Daniele Nardi, who had telephone contact with base camp. It was he who informed Agostino Da Polenza of the current state of the ascent of K2 expedition 60 Years Later and the position of the climbers on the mountain.
“The sun has risen from 15 minutes on the summit, and has already reached the shoulder and 4 from the field a few minutes – always wrote a little while ago From Polenza -. Daniel says that the temperature is already alzata.Conferma the good condition of Simon. ”
“For more than an hour operations started at the Concordia Rescue team for the recovery of the injured in field 2 of Broad Peak – From Polenza finally ends, giving news of what is happening on the mountain even in the face of K2. Two men Concordia Rescue Team in fact, left the base camp of K2 last night to go to help a Taiwanese climber Become aware of bad return from the summit of Broad.
After a night of vigil, the good news that the climb is well under way and especially good time
After a night of vigil, the good news that the climb is well under way and especially good time
UPDATE 22:00 h 25/07 – “At 00:50 local time we had a telephone conversation with Field 4 with Daniele Nardi, who is trying to document photographically the departures to the summit – told us Stefania Mondini EvK2Cnr the field K2 base -. The situation is this: the former are left at 8 o’clock in the evening (always local time): Sherpas are 3 and 4 Pakistanis with oxygen without oxygen. Their task is to equip with 300 feet of rope the Bottleneck and the cross, then go to the summit. ”
The first 4 Pakistani climbers to leave the field 4 were Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah and Ghulam Mehdi. They got all 4 without oxygen, they were instead Sherpa 3 with oxygen.
“At 10 pm local time parties with the other 3 Pakistanis first group of climbers expeditions – the continued Mondini -. About 11:30 pm departure of Giuseppe Pompili, Simon Origone and a bearer Pakistani high altitude, Amin Baig. 00:30 am departure of Michael Cucchi with Tamara Lunger and Klaus Gruber. Others are leaving at this time. From the base we saw the first headlamps towards the neck of the bottle, at the summit, Daniele Nardi has confirmed to us by telephone where they are the first parties. ”
At the foot of the bottleneck, under the serac
At the foot of the bottleneck, under the serac
The next phone appointment with Daniele Nardi is scheduled at 7 am Pakistani, and then in about a couple of hours. We will update in real-time news that will continue to get from the base camp of K2.

K2 climbers climb to Camp 4

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July 25, 2014 – 09:28 | Author: Valentina d’Angella
BASE CAMP OF K2, Pakistan – They are coming up to the fourth field climbers of the expedition “K2, 60 Years later”. Simone Origone, Michael Cucchi, 7 Pakistanis and Daniele Nardi following them for photos and videos, are proceeding at this time, as well as several other teams that want groped tomorrow to reach the 8611 meters K2. “The weather is beautiful” tells Agostino Da Polenza, from base camp that has the telescope pointed at the wall from the first light of dawn.
The plan provides for the arrival in camp 4 in a matter of a few hours, then rest to share this night last difficult part of the climb via the Abruzzi Spur: the climbers will tackle the “Bottleneck”, 8200 meters, will exceed the big serac hanging of 100 meters, then the dangerous traverse left on a slope of 50, 55 degrees. The last 100 meters of snow will bring them on the final ridge, almost 20 meters in plan, and then the summit of K2 8611 meters.
Agostino Da Polenza follows with the telescope
The year of the 60th anniversary summit could see many climbers since many are trying and that the conditions would seem extraordinarily good for K2. Most of the team will attempt the summit tomorrow, July 26, a few others have chosen the following day, the 27th.
According to Explorersweb groped on the first day will be, over the climbers in the group “K2, 60 years later,” even Tamara Lunger, Giuseppe Pompili, Klaus Gruber and Amin Baig; International shipping which includes Adrian Hayes and Al Hancock; Chris Burke and Lhakpa Sherpa; mountaineers Czechs, two Greek Alexandros Athanasiadis Aravidis and Panagiotis, Spaniard Ferran Latorre and the three Nepalese mountaineers. Then there’s the Californian Cleo Weidlich uphill with 3 Sherpas from Cesen route.
On the 27th they should climb the Finnish Samuli Mansikka and Americans Garrett Madison, Alan Arnette, Matthew Dupuy and Fredrick Sylvester. The Polish team, which also goes by the Italian Simone La Terra, it seems instead that he intends to wait for a new window of good weather.

After the Black pyramid: all field 3, field 4 tomorrow, then attempting to summit

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24 July 2014 – 13:32 | Autore: 
K2 BASE CAMP, Pakistan – A day of clear skies allowed all climbers of K2 expedition 60

The pyramid Nera to K2 (Photo Daniele Nardi)

The pyramid Nera to K2 (Photo Daniele Nardi)

years later to arrive without difficulty at the predetermined goal for today: field three to 7300 meters. The first to arrive 2 hours in advance on the others were Michael Cucchi, Simone Origone Hassan Jan strong climber and team leader Ali Durani, the youngest with his 24 years and that he was approached to ‘mountaineering’ s high altitude only two years ago thanks to the mountaineering school set up by Taqi and Hassan Jan in Hushey.
Afterwards came all the other members of the team. Daniele Nardi with his cameras and camcorders has taken mountaineers climb along the Black Pyramid, the passage of day to overcome to get to camp 3.
Even today confirm the predictions of the window of good weather tomorrow and the second program already mountaineers go up to camp 4. Then tomorrow night, at 22-23 Italian, they will move. The first to set up the path on the neck of the bottle and on the beam, then the other to follow groped for the summit.

Mountaineers on top of the 8000 peaks at Broad and GII, K2 is the day of the field 3

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July 24, 2014 - 09:27 | Author: Valentina d'Angella
BASE CAMP OF K2, Pakistan - come confirmations yesterday on eight thousand peaks in Karakorum. As learned from Agostino Da Polenza, stationed at the base camp of K2 with the "K2 after 60 years", 7 persons should be arriving at the summit yesterday both Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak, where even today they would be climbers going up. O the other hand K2 U.S. Cleo Weidlich and his Sherpas would arrive at camp 3 on the way Cesen, while the Italian and Pakistani team would be going up to the third camp at this time away from the Abruzzi Spur.
Since yesterday morning Polenza and Stefania Mondini were able to spot from the base camp two climbers close to the summit, climbing slowly but surely rise. Today comes confirmation of those peaks: in fact, also according to Explorersweb, at around 2 pm (local time) would have touched the 8,047 meters at the Broad Alex Gavan, Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov, who then spent the night at camp 3 and are now down towards the base. On the other hand, hard top center, the Polish team, exhausted, would be turned back 100 meters from the summit.
Even today it is already day of the summit of Broad Peak, where he is also going up Oscar Cadiach in search of his 14th and final eight thousand. According to the latest information Spaniard Jesus Morales and his Sherpa reached the summit at 6:15 am local otra. Success at the top for two Pakistanis and three Taiwanese and a Mexican couple. It also talks about some Koreans and Nepalese, while the Poles would have confirmed the top of Piotr Tomala, Agnieszka Bielecka and Marek Chmielarski. The latter would be a second team that has direct bearing on the main peak.
Gasherbrum II is news of several climbers went to the top yesterday: among them there would be an international shipment which is part of the turkish Findik Tunc, who has reached his 11th eight thousand, and a Korean team.
And finally, K2, where climbers today have as their objective the field 3. Cleo Weidlich The Californian, the only one this season chose to climb the Cesen route, it would have arrived along with his sherpa 3. The alpininisti the expedition "K2 60 years after" they would be going at this time. Updates will follow throughout the day.

K2, 1800 meters of ascent without problems: all 10 in Camp 2

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BASE CAMP OF K2, Pakistan – They all arrived at camp two, at an altitude of 6800 meters, the nine climbers of K2 60 years later, rising 1,800 meters between the base camp to camp 2 quickly and without problems. It ended the exhausting strategy for acclimatization and preparation of the fields made ​​of ups and downs from the base camp. Now we have to go up by pointing to the goal.
Michael Cucchi, who in recent days has had some intestinal complications, frequent in these parts, it was completely restored, “I have returned all the energy, I got good,” has told us about.
Simone Origone, after a night spent at the advanced base camp, arrived alone and first this morning in camp two. Reached after a couple of hours from any other team, and Daniele Nardi follow up to the shoulder, if possible, the expedition to document with video and photos the summit attempt.
The arrangements have been made, the program established. Tomorrow early morning departure to camp 3, we will have to overcome the Black Pyramid, where also are well laid down the ropes in recent days. Yet no one has instead reached camp 4.’s There, in the field above the four that it will do the most delicate work, which the Pakistanis are preparing.
“This morning in the valley was marred a little time – Da Polenza writes that he has just heard via radio climbers from camp 2 -. But the barometric pressure here at base camp has held up. And these days I saw that the barometric pressure matters a lot. The forecasts received today confirm my feelings on 26 at the moment seems the best day groped for the summit. “
The base camp is now almost deserted. There remain a few Sherpas. This morning I started in many to climb the mountain. It is clear to everyone that these are good days for groped.

The first Mountain rescue service in Karakoram

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It’s called ” Concordia Rescue Team ” and it’s the first Mountain Rescue with headquarters in the heart of Karakoram: during the climbing season, it’s based at the Concordia Circle, at 4,700 meters above sea level at the point of union of the Baltoro Abruzzi and Godwin – Austen glaciers, close to K2 and the other 8000ers of Karakoram. The staff is qualified and specifically trained by EvK2Cnr Committee: rescuers and paramedics have mountain experience, acclimatation and specific preparation to help porters, trekkers and climbers.

The Concordia Rescue Team was created in the summer of 2012 as an absolute innovation in Pakistan. An organized mountain rescue service has never existed among these mountains, except for temporary initiatives carried out by foreign organizations like the Italian Alpine Club did in 2004. It is an emergency service with two tasks: the first is helping in case of mountain accidents and maintaining safe the trekking routes on the glacier; the second is to provide medical assistance in Concordia for tourists, climbers and porters.

Concordia Rescue team

It covers a primary need among these mountains, increasingly visited by tourists: every year, there are almost 60 organized trekkings on the Baltoro Glacier and dozens of mountaineering expeditions. There are about 6000 people moving on the glaciers every season, both tourists and local staff. Rescue at high altitude requires a lot of energy , will and also humility. The rescuers of the Concordia Rescue Team are all Pakistani people, mostly working as high altitude porters, young, strong and with experience on big mountains: most of them summited at least one 8000er. Since its creation, the Concordia Rescue Team has rescued dozens of climbers, intervening at high altitude, up to 7000 meters. At Concordia, more than 700 porters moreover were treated for of altitude sickness or cough.

Rescuers are trained by EvK2Cnr Committee with instructors of the Italian mountain rescue service (Cnsas): they learn how to make knots, how to carry out operations on the glaciers, how to use stretchers. They also attend lectures and watch videos of mountain and avalanche rescues. The tent-station installed at Concordia has one hyperbaric chamber, oxygen tanks and first aid equipment needed for rescues at high altitude. It’s first class equipment that allows to carry out also difficult rescue operations.

The Concordia Rescue Team is collaborating with 1122, the emergency service of the Gilgit – Baltisan region, located in Skardu. Two paramedics of the 1122 staff, also trained by EvK2Cnr and Italian Cnsas, stay at Concordia during the climbing season together with the rescuers of the Concordia Rescue Team.

Together with 1122, Pakistani tour operators and the government of Gilgit Baltistan, now EvK2Cnr and the Concordia Rescue team are working to create a standard procedure for emergencies. The project is to create an operations room, working 24 hours a day, able to sort the calls to the right people.

K2 60 years later

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K2 …

Is, probably, the most frightening, loved and admired mountain. A peak dreamed, in the last one hundred years by very different people, a peak able to attract with his magnetism the imagination of mountaineers , scientists, adventurers from all over the world. If at the beginning of the century to reach the base of the mountain was an epic adventure, today , while climb it still remains an effort for the few, reach the base camp admiring it severe silhouetted against the Pakistani sky is a reachable dream.

In 1954 …

… Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, led by Ardito Desio, reached for  the first in the history, the summit of K2. The success of the expedition was been possible thanks to the determination of the Italian team, but also thanks to the support of the Pakistani people.

In 2004 ..

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of first ascent,  EvK2Cnr Committee, founded by Desio and supported by the Italian Government, led two alpine expedition, one scientific expedition and the helps of other organizations and associations, organized some activities to promote the anniversary. During that summer over 6000 trekkers, climbers and tourists visited the heart of the mountains of Karakourm.

Today …

… 60 years later, the Government of Gilgit Baltistan (the north Pakistani region), the SEED project for the implementation of the Central Karakorum National Park, the EvK2Cnr Committee, PATO, the Pakistan association of Tour Operators, and some other organizations celebrate the 60th anniversary of first ascent with a series of initiative. The target is to promote this area.

The alpine Pakistani expedition…

For the first time an official Pakistani team will attempt to the summit. EvK2Cnr Committee, in order to remember the determinant contribution of Pakistani People during the first ascent, will support the team.

The events to celebrate the 60th anniversary …

Among the set of events organized during this summer there are the Silk Route Festival, the Silk Route Film Festival, an exhibition dedicated to Filippo de Filippi, one of the first explorers of Karakorum, and several other initiatives.

The adventure for mountaineer and trekkers from all over the world …

PATO, the Pakistan association of tour operators, in order to celebrate the 60th anniversary, organize a set of new treks and tours to visit Karakorum and reach K2 base camp. Pato guarantee  professional services, experienced guides, qualified staff with appropriate levels of security to international standards.

K2 Base Camp: the highest meteorological climate monitoring station in Baltoro area has been successfully installed

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K2 BASE CAMP, Pakistan — It is the highest meteo station ever installed in Karakorum that belong to the integrated SHARE project funded by EvK2CNR comprising an international climate and atmospheric monitoring network, researches in environmental and geophysical sciences and new technology development for monitoring activity in high mountain regions.

In the last 24 hours the temperature at K2 Base camp fluctuated between  -1° minimum and 6.9  maximum; wind flow at 13 Km/h. It is relatively hot at K2 base camp, wind is strong and the relative humidity low: 27% minimum 75% maximum. These are the first data received in real time from K2.The station has been installed at 4970 m a.s.l. directly on the glacier  near the tents where the members of K2 60 years later Expedition are planning the attack at K2 Summit. The first scientific challenge of the Expedition has been accomplished: the raw real time data are now available on EvK2CNR website at this link: K2 Realtime data.  http://evk2cnr.org/K2-60th/RealTimeSensorDisplay.php

The station has been designed and provided by Cae – Italian leader in the multi-hazard monitoring and early warning   – and it has been  produced with a modular structure which can be disassembled into parts in order to simplify the difficult transportation during the long trekking on the Baltoro Glacier. The station has been provided with four sensors: anemometer, thermoigrometer, barometer, albedometer- measuring  wind speed and direction, temperature, humidity, snow level and solar irradiation and it is able  to transmit the data automatically and in real time to the researchers.

“To transport the station on Baltoro Glacier has not been easy, even if we used animals – Marcello Alborghetti, EvK2CNR researcher and technician says – We work hard and quickly with Madi, our Pakistani technician, to install the station and to calibrate all the sensors. The most difficult and complex aspect was the communication system and  the real time data connection”.  The Pakistani and Italians at K2 base camp, coordinated by Marcello Alborghetti and Madi, worked together to reach this important scientific goal.

“This meteorological  station at K2 Base Camp is the fourth Share station located on the Baltoro area – Elisa Vuillermoz, EvK2CNR scientific coordinator, says. – The data that will be provided by this new station will increase all climatic data and information that we have about Central Karakorum area. The monitoring of this peculiar area it is also important for the comprehension of the Karakorum anomaly phenomena that highlights a stability or small raise of the glaciers, on the contrary of the phenomena registered in the Himalayan region, where glaciers are regressing.

The station will send real time data during all the duration of the K2 60 years later Expedition that is going on. All the 9 members of the Expedition team reached camp 1, and actually the two Italian mountaineers Michele Cucchi and Simone Origone with four Pakistani are trying to reach camp2 in spite of the bad  weather conditions.

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